I stepped off the boat into the rural and coastal towns of the Fins, learning about the relaxed life and brainstorming game dev with my friend in Vaasa.
Hello Moomins!
Fresh off the sleepless cruise and few hours before another long bus ride, I decided to walk from the port to the city center. As I got closer I admired the clean and modern housing blocks mixed with local architecture and plenty of greenery. The city, while fairly small, definitely felt very safe and comfortable. But my tummy was rumbling, as it always does.
I stumbled upon a big square where the early farmers and smiling merchants were still setting up their booths. Not feeling like porridge, a staple Finnish breakfast available even at numerous restaurants, I grabbed a few fresh veggies to go with my Karjalanpiirakka Munavoilla. The rice-flour pastry covered by a mushed hardboiled egg surprised me with its chewy and grainy texture as my tongue met the deliciously sweet and eggy flavors. It hit the spot!
With that taken care of, I got on the bus and napped through the next few hours, making up some of the sleep
lost.
Introduction to quaint Finnish life
I was met at the station by Henrik, or “henke,” a friend I only virtually knew from an online video game message board TTLG. What Henrik did not know was that, aside from a small souvenir, I also brought a good dose of Polish bad luck. But neither the funky car transmission, the unclosable driver window, nor the parking exit which refused to accept his validation ticket, stopped us from getting on our way!
Henrik’s housing complex once again reflected the Finnish coziness – a number of colorful buildings on the edge of the town, bordering a forest and lake. With childhood playgrounds and a store around the corner, it really felt comfortable staying there.
Taking the desperately needed shower, I noted there was no bathtub or separate booth but simply an efficient sloping floor with a drain in the middle. We set off to Henrik’s mom at her little big cottage in the woods. By now, I learned the red walls with white rims were quite characteristic of northern rural architecture and, much like Poland, it was not uncommon for Fins to have property outside the city where they could grow plants or raise a few animals.
We decided to take the first evening easy. After a hearty homecooked meal, a few beers, and a quick gaming session, I introduced Henrik to Rick and Morty as we slowly lulled into sleep.
Nature
Fully rested, we set out for a scenic drive through big lakes and forests, arriving at a tiny little sailing harbor. Hiking (if you can call a 10 minute walk that) to an old wooden observation tower, I looked at the endless forests and bays in the area remarking how flat Finland seemed in this region. With dearth of hills and more wetness, the vista definitely had a very different feel than the idyllic vastness of Swiss countryside just a month ago.
On the way back, we stopped by the city for coffee and cake as well as much-needed trip to the pharmacy. Remember how my foot was literally blistered into numbness after walking for miles around Vienna and Bratislava? The same spot was starting to bug me again, but I knew better than to let it fester. Getting a quality bandaid at 8 euro was definitely worth the investment.
Travel Tip: Don’t ignore blisters! Spending bit extra on a good bandaid (and shoes/socks) is well worth increased mobility and enjoyment.
Filled by the afternoon raisin and cardamom Pulla at a little market square similar to Turku’s, we explored the nearby waterfront. With just a few people relaxing on the grass, I noted how empty the city felt for a typical Saturday afternoon. Perhaps another sign of the more mellow life in the small Finnish towns?
Technology
Back home, Henrik and I shared our passion – game development. I showed him several of my in-progress and abandoned projects, getting valuable feedback mostly boiling down to “well, it sucks.” There’s a reason these were abandoned! Conversely, I was amazed at some of Henrik’s own work and his eye for “cinematic” presentation (as abused as the term has become in video game world). Really, you should check out his latest free game, In Search of Paradise!
Needless to say, it was awesome connecting with a fellow indie game developer at the other end of the world over something we both loved. Coming from a busy Los Angeles, it was interesting to think of this one man sitting in his cozy apartment, staring at the forest out the window, and just coding his bright evening away.
Much more peaceful than guiltily working from cafes of a hectic city. A lesson to be learned, perhaps?
Bright Night Out
We headed to town hungering for a drink. The British pub, as most British pubs abroad go, was a lively bunch of 25-something year old white guys ordering their Smithwicks and shooting down jagerbombs, with a few old sea dogs gruffly criticizing in the corner somewhere. A fun indulgence I was growing little old for, yet saved by further nerdy game talk with my companion. Before departing, I danced in tipsy stupor and got a lollipop for agreeing to take a photo with a red riding hood. Because Finland.
Walking out, it finally really hit me – holy crap it does NOT get dark at night here. I always knew the places up north get that, but never actually stayed in one (save for North Ireland which had the opposite problem of very early nights). Falling asleep was surprisingly not much more difficult, but definitely felt slightly uncanny.
Last day of Vaasa
After waking up I went into the forest surrounding Henrik’s apartments. Solitude broken only by people drinking and being merry at the nearby lake. Off in the distance a small little market and pizza place ensured the locals never ran out of broccoli and fish. One could really hermit in this area if they wanted.
Living in a nice home surrounded by nature, working on his hobby game dev and enjoying some evening playing games, I understood why Henrik was such a calm and mellow guy. Not a bad way to live, at all. But me, spoiled by the rush of big cities and travel, could only enjoy that in short bursts. A pity, but one I am not sure if I really regret.
Once again, as my adventures go, I was boarding a train. Off to Helsinki, the last destination of my European travels.
Little did I know, I was unwittingly saving the best for last…