Koobazaur's Domain

With hidden architectural gems, plentiful market plazas, friendly people and the Moomins, my last stop in Finland proved to be one of the most marvelous cities I’ve ever been to.

Strangers on Trains

Departing from my friend Henrik in Vaasa meant another five hours listening to rhythmic metal clacking as green blurs quickly swept outside. I’ve been growing to enjoy these extended train rides. The comfort and free wifi also make it a good environment for catching up on some work or writing.

But my productivity was broken up by the fellow who sat across me halfway through the journey. As it turns out, Petri works at a major international tech giant (which shall remain unnamed) in their graphical department. Quickly we connected over our experiences with coding DirectX shaders and grievances about Unity3D engine pipelines. We agreed we definitely must grab a beer when we both return to Seattle after our travels.

Two tech nerds making a connection on an afternoon train at the other edge of the world… typical.

Helsinki Welcomes You!

I began down the cobbled streets of the commercial district, passing by countless lively cafes, restaurants and shops. It felt just as all the commercial districts do, but definitely more distinct than the Starbuckses and 7-11s of Stockholm.

I hit upon a little market by the harbor and tried some local fried fish, half of it stolen by a goddamn seagull. What an asshole.

I also bought some obligatory Moomin souvenirs – the cartoon was quite popular in Poland and a nostalgic part of my growing up. Fittingly, I picked the shirt with papa Moomin picking out another bottle of fine whiskey from the cellar.

I asked a stranger for recommendations. Vilma, a friendly Finnish gal, pointed me south through some architecturally beautiful neighborhoods, all the way to the waterfront. As I recharged lying on the grass, I let the first impressions wash over me.

The architecture had its charm, the mood was happy, the roads were clean, and the wet breeze cooling.

I was beginning to fall for Helsinki.

Educational Coffee and Rock Temples

On my way back I stopped by Anodante, another of Vilma’s recommendations – half flower shop, half café in a pleasing Asian décor. My work emails went unanswered as I was drawn to the nearby conversation. With a Korean expat, a local Finn and an American traveler, I learned of Finland’s rise from poverty to a strong economy boasting excellent social support.

Before returning “home,” I also went through Temppeliaukid, a church dug out of a massive rock. Even as an agnostic, I was impressed by how well the big rocky hill meshed with the city, providing a little natural resting spot surrounded by city blocks. That it might have argued religious agenda right below our feet did not take away from its beauty.

I began to realized Helsinki had countless of cleverly-designed rest areas, spacious plazas and luscious parks. Almost every turn hid yet another cool thing to marvel at. My crush on the city was getting deeper.

In search of the Sauna

It felt oddly nice to sleep on a complete stranger’s bed. My host, another Vilma (seems to be a popular name there) was located just half hour away from downtown by train. Much like Henrik’s, the apartment blocks were surrounded by a thick forest. I spent my morning climbing the rocks and exploring before grabbing some yogurt on the way back. I chose my AirBnB host well this time.

Back in the city, I ventured in the opposite direction to the day previous – north east in search of the infamous Helsinki original sauna. I crossed the bridge with another nice waterfront and ran into more ornaments, such as this statue straight from Punch Out:

Through more well-integrated greenery and good public transportation, I finally made it to Kotiharju, one of the only 2 original hot saunas left in the city. Unfortunately, having just finished three hours of walking in the heat, I was not quite in the mood for stepping into a sweltering box. I suppose the attraction would be better left for winter.

But hey, at least I got to see this inside:

Meat and Cheese

While loving the city, I had one major beef so far – the food choices, as in Stockholm, were nothing to write about. Only the same basic vegetables and generic breads in most grocery stores. But just before I was about to shake my head, I bumped into another plaza with a market. This one featured a whole 2-story building dedicated solely to artisan cheeses, freshly butchered animals in all kind of ways, or invitingly fragrant pastries. Once again, Helsinki pleasantly surprised me.

With the evening hours quickly approaching, I grabbed a Hesburger, the local competitor to McDonalds. Surprisingly, it managed to be even worse. As a purveyor of sampling local cultures, it was solely a curiosity thing I wanted to indulge. I did not have much expectations, and the city already proved it can do fine food in the paragraph above.

Final thoughts

An hour before departing for the airport, I stopped at a small bar recommended by one of today’s cafe baristas. With a beer and city-wide free Wifi, I chatted the barman and pondered my stay.

It’s almost as if every corner I took in the city, there was an intriguing statue to marvel, a luscious park to rest, a bar/cafe to unwind, or a market to grab quality lunch. The city embodied thoughtful design caring for the comfort of its denies.  Adding in the generous social support (free education and maternity leave oh yes), abundance of greenery or even this free WiFi, it had a lot going for it.

While three days are hardly enough to make an academic evaluation, and I still don’t have real feel for the social life of Finland, I must admit Helsinki has de facto become my favorite city out of the 9 countries I visited during my travels.

Saving the best for the last, I suppose.